Objectives

Objectives could change due to the fluid nature of climbing conditions and organisation in Nepal, however our original objective is set out below.

The aim of our expedition is to climb the roughly 1300 meter tall North Face of Kande Hiunchuli (6625m), and make the first ascent of the sub peak of Sisne (6470m) in Nepal's Patrasi Himal. If once we arrive we decide that conditions are not conclusive to climbing either of these two objectives then we will head further east in the glacial basin to check out the west face of Bhulu Lhasa (6100m). Kande Hiunchuli was climbed in 1964 by Norino Hoshino (accompanied by a Sherpa) of the Tokai University Alpine club, and subsequently received several attempts and one successful ascent in 1972 (Shigura Kuwahata and Toyukazu Hirota of the Tokyo Yamatabi club). Both ascents were made by the South-West Ridge. Additionally the mountain has been attempted by its various ridges to no avail. In the case of the North East (Sisne) ridge to poor rock and worse snow above it. Furthermore, the 1977 pre-monsoon attempt on the West Face of Sisne, the East Peak of Kande Hiunchuli, which can be viewed as part of the North face of Kande Hiunchuli ended in tragedy when the party was caught in avalanche after attempting the route in warming conditions after several days of heavy snowfall.

Our expedition aims to make use of colder weather (November) in the later part of the post-monsoon season along with a fast and light approach to take advantage of any window of good snow conditions to climb the North Face in Alpine style and subsequently descend by a route deemed appropriate.

By approaching via the Chaudabise Gorge (from Jumla) and over the nameless pass at 5000m and into the Changda Khola, we hope to gain sufficient acclimatisation to be able to effectively scout the base of both the ascent and descent routes which would then leave us sufficiently prepared for an ascent, when a window of good conditions presents itself. The Chaudabise Gorge is mostly a non technical trek with a short section which tends to present problems shortly after the monsoon when bridges may collapse (which costs a day) and another section that at the pass, which is often snowy in spring. We hope to avoid these problems by going later in the post monsoon season. However, we realise that along with the hope of better snow conditions on the face, this is part of the gamble which may leave us hoisted by our petards in the case of an early winter.                                                 

Taking a fast and light Alpine approach should enable us to avoid the complications and costs associated with the logistics of larger expeditions as well as keeping the number of porters and hence environmental impact to a minimal. Keeping in the spirit of Alpine style expeditions, neither porters nor Sherpas will be used above base camp. Ideally we would like to completely avoid the use of porters, but concede that with a 50+ km approach, this ideology would cost us too much time.

- Source Images: 1) North Face of Hiunchuli and West Face of Sisne (Swiss expedition 1980, Source Himalayan Journal. 2) North of Hiunchuli, extract from Mark Adam's video diary from the 2010 expedition (www.youtube.com). 3) Orographic diagram showing the Swiss approach (the same as our proposed approach) to Hiunchuli from Chaudabise Gorge.

Bibliography:

Himalayan Index (http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/ ).

Himalayan Journal, Vol 35, “Avalanche on Sisne” R. Anderson, 1977.

Himalayan Journal, Vol 37, “Swiss Sisne Himal Expedition”, Ruedi Meyer, 1980.

(www.garrykennard.com)“The 2010 Kande Hiunchuli Expedition: What Happened.” Garry Kennard, 2010.

Excerpts from the American Alpine Journal, (1964, 73, 90, 91).

maps.google.com (Author's Note: A luxury of the day and age!)